Those who go to Golmud are probably there for a stopover, en route to Lhasa, Tibet, or else trying to finagle a legal Chinese permit to visit the Tibet Autonomous Zone. I was of the latter camp. It took about six days to secure permission to visit the ever-sensitive Chinese Tibet, though a well-timed visit to Golmud could result in permit acquisition within three business days. This is the facade to look out for, the China International Travel Service (CITS) building, a never-never land where all the magic of Tibet permits takes place. Head straight for the fourth floor. Don't wake the upper-echelon managers sleeping at their desks.
Near the central square of Golmud is ... green umbrella heaven.
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